Turn off the drill immediately. Don't try to pull the drill by force. If the drill has a rotation change function, switch it to reverse (left) and at low speed try to gently "screw" the drill from the hole. If this does not help, it may be necessary to uncuff the material around the drill slightly.

Absolutely not. The surgical mask protects the environment from aerosols exhaled by the user, but does not filter fine particles of building dust effectively. For the protection of the airways, a certified filter half mask of at least FFP2 class is required.

The safest method is to use an electronic cable and metal detector. Such a device allows you to locate the cables hidden in the plaster under voltage, as well as metal pipes or reinforcement. Never drill blind, especially near sockets, switches and installation cans.

Mechanical or pneumatic stroke functions are used exclusively for drilling in hard, solid building materials such as concrete, stone or full brick. The stroke must be absolutely off during drilling in wood, metal, plastics and brittle materials, such as ceramic tiles or hollows, to avoid damage.

No, the pencil has an automatic mechanism to remove graphite. In addition, it is equipped with a built-in pencil sharpener that allows quick sharpening of the cartridge.

Yes, the magnetic element was designed for intensive use and effectively keeps the pencil on metal surfaces.

The pencil is compatible with standard automatic pencil cartridges of a suitable diameter (2.8mm), which facilitates their replacement and availability

Yes, an automatic magnetic pencil is designed for both professionals and masters. Its durability and functionality meet the requirements of professional work.

A pencil, or rather a pencil cartridge, depending on the type and hardness, will work on such surfaces as wood, concrete, metal, brick or building plates. It is ideal for construction and workshop applications.

Wet drilling is always more efficient, significantly prolongs tool life and minimizes dust. Dry work is more comfortable in places where the use of water is troublesome, but is only possible with tools adapted for this and requires cooling breaks.

Yes, there are diamond openings designed for dry work, often used with angle grinders. Usually they have special cooling wax in their body, which melts while working, draining heat. However, they are less durable than those cooled with water and designed to make single holes.

The leading drill has two main tasks. Firstly, it centres the opening and prevents it from "sliping" on the surface of the material at the beginning of drilling. Secondly, it stabilizes the tool while working, ensuring a simple and equal opening.

It depends on the handle. The M14 handles are designed for angle grinders. The hexagonal or cylindrical models can be used in drills, provided that they provide adequate high rotation and stable operation without axial beating.

The most common cause is the so-called glassing of the segment, which means clogging it with a piece, which causes the tool to slide. It can be regenerated by drilling for a moment in strongly abrasive material, like sandstone or a special sharpening stone, which will reveal new diamond grains.

The best practice is cleaning tools after each use. This removes material that could bind to the segment and cause corrosion, and allows to control their technical condition on an ongoing basis.

Yes, this process is called "opening" or "screwing" of the segment. It involves making several cuts in soft, abrasive material (e.g. sandstone block or special donkey), which removes used binder and reveals new, sharp diamond grains.

Nope. It is absolutely necessary to follow the manufacturer’s recommendations. Wet tools used dry will be destroyed rapidly. The dry working tools have a special design (e.g. laser welded segments), but even in their case, water cooling significantly prolongs their lifespan.

Burning material is a sign that the shield is overheating. This may be due to too much pressure, behind fast feed, working dry with an unsuited shield or its blunting. Pressure should be reduced, cooling breaks should be made, or the shield should be ‘freshed’, cutting through several abrasives, such as a gas-beton block.

There is a thin (1.2 mm) and a rigid diamond shield for the greek with a continuous wreath or special reinforced collar for the phase and cutting at the key angle. This ensures stability, minimizes vibrations and allows you to get a very clean, peeled edge.

Although there are universal shields, it is best to use a shield specifically designed for cutting hard grits. The plate for soft glaze will be used on the greek immediately, and the concrete shield will pull it and cause splashes. The dedicated shield guarantees clean cutting and optimal service life.

The diamond shield doesn't sharpen. When the shield stops cutting, this means that diamond grains have been "closed" in a metal binder. In order to re-discover them, make several cuts in strongly abrasive material, such as sandstone or concrete block. This process is called "refreshing" or "opening" the shield.

The main difference lies in the hardness of the binder (metal matrix) binding diamonds. Grese shields have a soft binder that quickly abrasions, revealing new, sharp diamond grains, which is necessary for cutting hard but incorrigible materials. Concrete shields have hard binders, because concrete itself is abrasive material and consumes them at an appropriate rate.

Cooling (most often with water) has a key impact. It reduces the operating temperature, preventing overheating and deformation of the shield body and damage to the segments' binder. In addition, the coolant flushes the proceeds out of the cutting zone, reducing friction and wear.

Yes, this process is called "sharpening" or " sanding". It involves cutting soft, abrasive material (e.g. sandstone block), removing used metal binder and revealing new, sharp diamond grains. However, it is not regeneration but only restoration of temporary fitness.

Blue or purple spots on the steel body of the shield are a sign of overheating. This proves work with too much emphasis, without proper cooling or worn cutting segment. The overheated shield loses its rigidity and is more vulnerable to damage.

Yes, in most cases this is even recommended. The use of water as a coolant when working with a shield designed for dry cutting significantly prolongs its service life, reduces dusting and improves edge quality. However, make sure that the used power tools are suitable for wet operation.

Sometimes a new shield requires a short "get" period on the test material to reveal the first layer of diamonds. This may also result from the purchase of a disc with an inappropriate specification (e.g. intended for another material) or lower quality than the previous one.

There is no one answer to that question. The life of diamond shields depends on many factors: hardness and thickness of grits, machine power and stability, operator techniques and application of cooling. Professional shields can cut from several hundred to up to a thousand meters running in optimal conditions.

Wet drilling is always more efficient, significantly prolongs tool life and minimizes dust. Dry work is more comfortable in places where the use of water is troublesome, but is only possible with tools adapted for this and requires cooling breaks.

Always follow the drill manufacturer's instructions. The general rule is: the larger the diameter of the drill, the lower the speed. This is usually the range from 400 to 1000 rpm. Too high rotations cause overheating and quick use of the drill.

A high quality universal diamond drill can handle most materials, from soft glaze to hard ggres. However, for serial work in extremely hard materials, such as quartzite or granite, it is worth investing in a specialized tool with higher diamond concentration.

Turn off the drill immediately. Don't try to pull the drill by force. If the drill has a rotation change function, switch it to reverse (left) and at low speed try to gently "screw" the drill from the hole. If this does not help, it may be necessary to uncuff the material around the drill slightly.

Not always the price is the only determinant, but branded drills from renowned manufacturers are usually made of better steel quality and have more precise blade geometry. This translates into longer life, greater precision and speed of drilling. However, it is crucial to match the drill type to the material.

Absolutely not. The concrete drill made of sintered carbide is too soft to handle the hardness of the grits. It will rapidly overheat, and it can break the plate without making a hole.

These terms are often used interchangeably, but the drill typically refers to tools with smaller diameters (e.g. up to 14 mm) for holes under the stake. A diamond hole or lace is a large diameter tool for cutting holes under electrical cans, pipes or fittings.

The most common causes are the total consumption of a diamond embankment or its "glassing", i.e. the sealing of grains with dust. In the second case, you can try to "exacerbate" them, drilling in abrasive material. Another cause may be working at too high speeds, which leads to overheating and destruction of the binder holding the diamonds.

It's not worse, it's different. Wet drilling is cleaner (no dust), better cools the drill and often prolongs its lifespan. Dry drilling is faster, does not require access to water and does not cause a mess, but generates a lot of dust and requires breaks to cool the tool.